well, the flights were very interesting. we were flying from Salvador to Sao Paulo to Manaus. Ah, but no one told us that we also had to stop in Victoria. so we end up going Salvador, Victoria, Soa Paulo, Manaus. We have to change time zone everytime we land. Personally I dont recommend getting three flights in the space of 8/9 hrs and changing time zones everytime you land!! we arrived in Manaus so confused and disorientated.
oh my god, its boiling hot. its well over 30 centigrade. am very suprised by Manaus. was expecting a hick town with a few jungle tourist offices. but its actually a big city with a population of about 2 million. teh guy from the hostel collects us from the airport and tells us that it can get up to 45 degrees and they have seen tourists land, come outside and leave immediately cos they cant take the heat. get to hostel, its a bit rotten, but not much we can do. they guy takes us shopping. its a duty free state. eventually get shorts - god Brazilian women are tiny. it was impossible to get something that wasnt vacume packed to my ass! Guy goes into details about their amazon tours. Im tired and cranky and so give him a gooid grilling about it. book it for US$285 for 4 days/3 nights. go to tour office to pay and see their other hotel, well its so much nicer, we get him to drive us back to the other one, pack up and move. all set for the jungle tom morning.
12th November 2006.
get collected at 7am. meet the rest of the group, 3 americans, 1 australian, 2 germans (couple) and the two of us. meet our guide Herman. Everyone is aged between 24-30, so got a really good group. Tour includes everything - accommodation, food, drinking water, activities, transport etc. the only thing we have to pay for is beer. get a minivan to teh pier in Manaus. Wait for the others to arrive. look around the fish market while we wait. Some of the fish are enormous and really expensive, about R$250 each (E100). Hermon introduces himself to me - he has taken a shine to me!! Hes nice and quite cute. get in our boat and head out and see the Meeting of teh Waters, where the Rio Negro meets the Amazon/Solimanas. Its weird, you can clearly see teh brown water meet the black. they dont mix because of the different acidity levels. they are also two different temperatures. you can actually feel the difference when you put your arm in. really strange.
head off to the next village. swap boat for an old battered VW van. There is a shopping area, where they stock up on drinking water and a few other bits foir the next few days. drive for about 50 mins. stop at a pertol station and get watermelons and loo stop. driver drives down the middle of teh road to avoid the bumpy bits at the sides! Stop to look at waterlillies - not the biggest in teh Amazon, but still really pretty. go off road, down a red/brown dirt track - this is more like it! arrive at a small house and get out and then load into a tiny boat, so all 10 of us and our bags and food and water for 4 days. dont hknow how the thing holds us all afloat. dont really want to know either! quite a few people live out here, randomn houses/sheds dotted about the place. sail for about 1,5hrs and arrive at our base. see sopme birds along the way. pitstopped at this enormous tree along teh way. its hugh. we climber up the side using vines, to look in at the baby vultures that had nested in there.
base camp is nice. kitchen and dining room are in one building, which is floating on the river. its floating because when its wet season, it rises to the same level as teh sleeping area (about 70 steps up the river bank). we are all given a hammock and a mossie net to sleep in. you can sleep indoors or outside under the roof. we pick outside under the roof, as it is incredibly hot. inside is not an option. teh 2 germans sleep indoors - thankfully. they werent the easiest to talk to and they are all over each other like a rash.
after lunch, food was amazing (freash fish, rice noodles, pineapples ) we go piranha fishing. I caught about 7 - was good fun. they are clever little fish, they kept eating the bait off the hook and not getting caught. you can feel them doing it. we run out of bait very quickly, so Herman cuts up some of the ones we have caught and we use them as bait. its well over 30 C, i have factor 50 sunblock and loads of DEET and I still get eaten alive! hands are seriously filthy and slimey after handling teh bait and fiah.
after dinner, when its dark (it gets dark about 6pm, as we are so close to the equator), we go Caymen hunting. they are like litle crocodiles. Use a torch to search. Herman keeps letting me do things first and explaining everything to me as opposed to the whole group. have a bit of a blonde moment in the boat, when I turn around to two of the americans and ask them which one has a really loud ticking watch?? Emere just turns around and say, Judy you are in the jungle , its the insects ticking!! oops! Herman catches a caymen. he comes back so I can hold it and get a photo. everyone who wants to can. they are cool. really smooth. its illegal to poach them, as they used to be very popular for shoes and handbags. teh others in teh group are beging to take the piss out of me about Herman. even the lads have noticied. Bless him, but hes not very subtle! Everyone is in their hammock and asleep by 9,30. since we have no electricity and have to be up by 5,30 there isnt much else to do. Am so glad I packed a torch!
13th November 2006
get up at 5,30 - bright out, need as much daylight as we can get. we go birdwatching. See a few vultchers, herons, comerants, kingfishers and a few others as well. Hermon asks me if I can see them all. the others are really begining to take the piss now. Danm German couple keep lunging at each other for a kiss, but they have failed to notice that everytime they do that, the whole boat (whcih is very small) tips over and we all end up clining on for dear life. we dont intend to end up in piranha infested waters! group is becoming to 2 of them and the 6 of us. Herman is sticking with us! go back for breakfast. again food is delicious - fresh bread/cake, pineapples, watermelons, coffee. head out for a trek in the jungle for a few hours. we all pile into the boat again - the seats are wooden bench things. all of our asses are begining to suffer!! Jungle trel is cool. Wander about. Herman explains all about teh flaora and fauna. he has a massive machettee - man those things are sharp! he chops things out of our way with great ease. he cust a hugh palm tree leaf into a few bits and then opens out the leaves and makes me a fan! he makes one for the girls. teh german makes her own!! He cjops a shelled fruit with his machettee. inside there are white squishey bug thing. he says you can eat them, so one of the guys tries and says it popped in his mouth. apparently, they are better if they are toasted. so Hermin starts a fire using a few twigs, some steel wool, two batteries and a few tissues. never seen that done before. Toast the bugs like marshmallows! agrees that they are marginally better taosted! not convinced either way is good. move on and come across a hugh ant colony. Apparently, if you rub them into your skin they act as a natural mosquito repleent. the guys try it out and get eaten alive by teh ants! really funny. trek back to the boat - its started to rain. we are about 40 mins by boat from the base. my god, when it rains it pours. it was so heavy. we get so wet that all our underwear is soaked through and we had raingear on!! mental note, when it rains in the amazon - stay indoors! Get back to base and the other guests just laugh at the sad, sorry state we are in. we are supposed to be sleeping outsied in the jungle tonight, but its not really encouraging any of us at the moment. the 6 of us are so wet, and dont have spare trousers, we are all thinking about not going into the jungle for the night. The lightning is mad, its a red/orange colour. weather gets worse, so we all decide not to go tonight. I am nominated to talk to Herman bout the possibility of going tom instead. the logic being, he will do anything i want and doesnt care about the rest of the group!! So trek off in the rain, down to the dining room. Herman is all packed and machetted and ready to go. He agrees that we can go tom instead. Germans not too impressed with the majority rule, but hard luck. its so awful out, that we hang in our hammocks with a few beers and just have a laugh for the afternoon. Germans go fishing!! when rain stops, Herman appears and calls me over to him to show me the sun, ¨one of Brazils greatest assets¨. Others seriously taking the piss out of me now. Then he gives me some of his sweets! now they were only halls menthols, but in the middle of teh jungle its not easy to run to the shop and pick up a box of dairy milk!! the others are ready to vomit at this stage!!! Have dinner, Hermon asks if teh food is to my satisfaction. Emer and Tamara are sitting there going ¨what, do you not care if we get food poisoning??¨. starts raining again, so only thing to do is play cards and have a few beers by candle light. Herman buys me two beers and gives me a caiproina (cocktail) - think he wants to get me drunk!!! Go to bed about 10, knackered. Emer, Nate, Tamara and I are literally on top of each other. our 4 hammocks are in a space about 2 metres squared.